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Warnings and Possible Problems
Housing:
Flash control must be in the "off" position when closing the housing. Closing the housing with the control in the full "on" position will put a small dent in the camera front which can keep the lens cover from being moved to the fully closed position. This is easy to fix by simply depressing the flash "on" button with lens cover open, inserting a small screwdriver under the trim piece, and lifting it back up straight.
Remember to open the lens cover before placing camera in the housing. The housing control moves only about "two hours" to turn on the camera. The flash will be "on" before the knob reaches straight down position. Do not force the control past this point.
The flash will not turn off:
Flash pawl inside of the housing must be in the lowest position, and the control knob must be in the "off" position. The ready light may be illuminated when the housing is closed because it is very difficult to install the camera without accidentally turning on the flash. We suggest pushing the right side of the camera against the front of the housing rather than the left or flash button side when placing the camera in the front. The ready light will go off within thirty minutes if the control is left in the "off" position.
Upper left corner of the photo shows red:
This embarrassing phenomenon results when the deflector and water correcting lens are installed with the SubStrobe AQ/S. Early production deflectors are too translucent, allowing the strobe to illuminate the water correcting lens. E-mail Ikelite for #0925.38 chrome mylar decal to stick inside of the deflector. Current accessories are black to eliminate this problem.
Upper left corner of the photo shows WHITE:
Lenses, deflector and diffuser placement is critical. The little arc tab on the bottom of the deflector or diffuser must be under the lens to block the strobe light. The deflector or diffuser and its attaching lens set must be tight together, and installed so light from the camera strobe does not leak around the diffuser or deflector, especially in the corner closest to the camera lens.
Film processors will occasionally provide "H" (4x7) prints when "C" (4x6) were ordered. "H" prints can be identified because the picture will match the entire photographic area shown on the "index" print of all pictures. "H" prints will show black or red vignetting in the corners of the print.
Reflections in upper left corner of photo:
Light leakage as described above will show as a bright spot in the photo. We see occasional reflections in the photo corner that do not block the subject. The subject can still be seen through these reflections. The reflections seem to be more likely when photographing in low light levels.
We now paint the side of the clear plastic housing under the glass lens to eliminate these reflections. This can be done with a black felt marker, or we can send a decal that can be placed on this edge if you E-mail Ikelite requesting #0925.39 black decal.
We recommend "C" format for three reasons:
Can I use Horizontal or Panoramic format?
- It is required for use with the Macro Framer.
- It is the most economical choice for the prints.
- Classic prints will fit most standard photo albums and holders.
The negative is the same for all three formats. The switch only indicates which format is to be printed. "C" may be the most practical choice since reprints can be ordered in Panoramic or Horizontal size. The APS index print may show slight vignetting in the corners, but not in the Classic or Panoramic size prints.
Cautions about the camera:
Remember to rewind the film before removing. The film door will be locked until the film rewinds into the canister. Do not force the door to open. A partially or fully exposed film canister can NOT be inserted into the camera.
Final analysis:
The 3e system is exciting, a joy to use, and can provide absolutely spectacular results. Click here to see the AquaShot Photo Contest results.
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